After waxing my surfboard I pull my navy blue rash guard over my head, attach the leash to my ankle and make my way to the shore. The water ripples over my toes as I stand at the edge of the ocean where the beach ends and the sea begins. My board splashes into the water and I begin to paddle. I dip my left hand followed by my right into the water and propel myself forward pushing the water back behind me. The board glides through the water similar to a rower gliding through. After paddling out a reasonable distance, I stop and sit upright on the board.
I look out into the horizon. The nearest surfer is so distant from me, it feels as though I am alone. In between wave breaks the water is still and flat. It is in this moment that it is only myself and the board waiting in the mass we call the ocean. It is invigorating yet intimidating at the same time.
"It was the perfect way to clear my head...I knew I could leave life on land for the water was all about me."
A wave begins to rise from flatness of the ocean. I turn to face the beach and begin to paddle. Faster and faster and harder and harder. I pull and pull until finally the time comes to stand and ride the wave. Flying through the water I feel weightless and free. It was my feeling, my moment, my drug.
GG. myconstellationprize.blogspot.com
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